Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Feliz Navidad

Merry Christmas!

Yesterday was the worst day ever...the conference was longer than life and I was SOOO TIRED.

So I swore I wouldn't drink or go to the disco last night but before I knew it I was taking flaming sambuca shots and dancing on the speakers until 3am.

Oh well, it's Christmas...

Tomorrow we're off. I probably won't have too much internet access from now on, so have a wonderful holiday and enjoy some egg nog for me. We'll be eating Iranian food and attempting to make mimosas.

See Ya!

Monday, December 24, 2007

Please Don't Stop the MUSICCCCC

December 23, 2007


Tonight at the ceremony we’ll be sworn in as official Peace Corps volunteers. After today I will no longer be a Peace Corps Trainee and will have official status.

The coolest thing is that now we actually get paid. No more living off $25 a month…now I can buy bananas every day- which I’m absolutely going to be doing.



So what does a person do for five days in a hotel in Ashgabat?

Take advantage of the running water and wash every single article of clothing possible.

Eat at Pizza Haus every day.

Have a gigantic hotel party (or two or three).

Dance on the speakers at the Ak Altyn Disco.

Purchase vodka just because there’s a big white horse on the label.

Spend every morning in pain, cursing the big white horse.


Three more days until we’re off…

How Low Can You Go?

December 22, 2007


I truly believe that a strong sense of humor is vital in every situation, but here there are so many things that you just have to laugh about because it’s just the way it is. So with that being said, I think I was blessed to have a host family with such a strong sense of humor. I’ve spent hours laughing with them over the most ridiculous things, hilarious things, and sometimes even serious things we found humor in.

But I’m left with a question…how low can you go until it’s culturally inappropriate? Since I can’t explain myself in English, joking in the Turkmen language has become a huge part of my life. However, this is something I’ve learned the hard way, through trial and error: What is okay to joke around about, and what is off limits?

Situation #1

My 16-year-old host sister walks in with her hair wrapped up in a scarf. I point and laugh because she looks different and she smiles and says she just washed her hair. “Oh, your monthly bath!” I tell her. “Good, your hair was really beginning to smell!”

The entire room bursts into laughter, everything is okay.

Score: 100 Percent Okay

Situation #2

My 16-year-old host sister and I are cleaning up after dinner. She gathers together the scraps into a dish for the dog outside, points to it, and tells me that she’s going to go feed my boyfriend.

Everybody laughs, I shout back some retort thinking I’ll get her back worse later.

Score: 100 Percent Okay

Situation #3

My older host sister is wearing a new dress, and she tells me she has another new dress and is wondering if I’d like it. She goes to get it, and it’s about ten sizes too big for me. I burst into laughter, point at the dress asking why the heck they would think I’d like it, not realizing it’s the same exact pattern as my sister’s new dress.

I ask who bought the dress and my host mother tells me that she did. Still laughing, carried away by the hugeness of the dress, I ask her why she’d buy such a thing. Other people are laughing but my host sister is trying to explain that they would resize it for me, but I wasn’t listening until it was too late.

I later realized that the dresses were the exact same pattern and I was being rude by saying I didn’t like the dress.
Score: Not really okay, but little damage caused

Situation #4

My host sister-in-law is sitting with me having breakfast. She’s so beautiful and sweet and I tell her so. Then, jokingly, I tell her, “You’re so wonderful… I bet you have a lot of boyfriends.”

“NOOO!!! No no no, Angela,” she says.

“Oh yes, I think when I’m not looking you probably have lots of guys wanting to go out with you.”

“NOOOOOOO,” she says, shaking her head angerly. I think she can tell I’m joking because I’m just smiling and laughing over it, but she didn’t like that I said that.

I learned later that the most insulting thing you can say to a married woman is that they have someone else on the side. If anyone at all whatsoever suspects them of having another man they are completely shamed and disowned by the family.

Score: Completely and absolutely culturally inappropriate

Moral of the story: Keep your sense of humor, but try and check yourself before you wreck yourself.

Friday, December 21, 2007

Holidays

Muslim holidays are fantastic.

Thursday night we stayed up late breaking up a billion loaves of bread for dograma. My hands are still sore.

But Friday was fantastic...I've never had so much food, ever...dograma, plov, cake, salad, and it went on forever.

Then at night we participated in a fascinating tradition of swinging our sins away. We got on top of a giant swing with a load of kids and went nuts. I don't entirely understand everything that goes on here all the time, but I truly enjoy it. It's pretty awesome :)

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Tolkuchka

I'll admit it...I hate Tolkuchka.

Being surrounded by five billion people with their huge bags and the copius amounts of banana and somsa sellers and those humongous carts that suddenly appear right in front of you or behind you without any warning knocking you completely off your path is no fun.

It's the diamond in the haystack situation...you know the perfect item for the perfect price is there for you, somewhere in the middle of the chaos when people are smacking into you, shoving you and pushing you all over the place- it's just a matter of finding it.

But I was desperate. My feet have been FREEZING in my strappy walking shoes so I had to find some boots.

So I pushed and shoved and yelled and battled the rudeness until I found them. They're big and thick and keep the warmth in...and they're only $15.

It may be the largest bazaar on the planet, and you may be able to find anything from camels to ice cream to ribbons for your hair to toilet seats, but every time I find myself there I tell myself that I will never ever again return.

But I always do. And my feet are very thankful.

Sunday, December 09, 2007

Tacos and Cognac

December 8, 2007



There are so many things I miss about American Christmas…among those things are egg nog, pumpkin pie and mashed potatoes…and sugar cookies with frosting…

One of the things I received for Christmas this year included a taco making kit and a bottle of Tapatio and the second my fellow volunteers in the Peace Corps office saw me pull that box out of my package I immediately heard, “TACO NIGHT!!!!!!!”

So tonight we did it. We gathered together and cooked beans, made salsa, sautéed some meat and grated some cheese. We even used yogurt in place of sour cream, and it was FANTASTIC!

We played Christmas music and stuffed ourselves with Mexican food, and even found ourselves toasting with a 20-year-old bottle of Turkmen cognac, which was pretty much the most disgusting thing I’ve ever willingly ingested in my life. When it entered my mouth I almost felt as though I’d been electrocuted.

But it was a fantastic evening and I realized more than ever how much I’m going to miss my Annau buddies once training is over.

Eighteen more days until the real work begins…



Mystery Meat

December 7, 2007



I walked outside this afternoon to see my host father holding a large, bloody axe. There was a stump of wood in front of him, supporting a large piece of raw meat.

He continued to reach into a large, bloody bag to pull out animal parts and chop them up on top of his block.

I walked closer but when he chopped what looked like a snout in half I jumped back and asked him what it was.

When he told me it was a cow I ran into the house to find another large metal bowl full of animal parts.

“Gyzulgul!” I yelled. I pointed to the bowl and asked if it was Penelope.

Everyone started laughing and Gyzulgul reassured me that the large mass of intestines came from someone else’s yard, and was not our beloved cow. It really was a relief…I was growing fond of Penelope’s daily moos.

So later that night for dinner I received a bowl of what looked like meat in front of me and I guess it was the cow’s stomach. It was rubbery and salty and each bite was really weird.

The irony is that my own intestines have been on a giardia rollercoaster for the past few weeks. I haven’t really been back to normal ever since I got sick, so I’m really curious about what will happen now.

If your own body isn’t quite working properly, is it safe to eat intestines?

Yes, I try to push the limits here. My stomach is full of stomach. Pretty nifty, eh?

Monday, December 03, 2007

Yoleten

Yoleten is fantastic.

The past five days I spent visiting my new home have led me to realize something huge: I need to seriously step up the language studies and I'm going to have to learn Russian.

My sitemate is fantastic and is fluent in both Turkmen and Russian and everyone in the town doesn't hesitate to let me know this...

It's irritating but incredibly motivating because it's a new challenge. Speaking nothing but Turkmen with my new family for four days straight was exhausting because every little thing I say requires concentration. One of my new family members is a Turkmen teacher though... and both she and my new host mom are incredibly dedicated to helping me learn.

My new room is fantastic, big and spacious with huge windows, a wardrobe and a tiny but comfortable bed, and the outhouse is far, far away from the house, which is just perfect because I never know when the giardia gas will hit.

I also saw snow fall for the first time in my life...it was pretty freaking awesome. And beautiful.

Turkmen people love Rhianna, by the way...and I have come to love her too. I never thought I'd say it, but she is pretty awesome.

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

the hole in the wall

Two days in Ashgabat for the conference before we take off to check out where we'll be living for the next two years...

My giardia has left me so I'm in full celebration mode.

At a Turkmen disco last night the DJ played a techno version of Pink Floyd.

I ate a big plate of spagetti with a heap of delicious cheese.

A fabulous hotel party and copious amounts of vod ensued...

The highlight:

Running out ten minutes before the countrywide curfew to find no stores open. A man on the street directed us to a dark opening in the wall across the street. We proceeded into a dark, narrow alleyway and found ourselves in the tiniest store on the planet.

Do you have any vodka? we asked the lady.

She nodded and crawled through an actual hole in her wall to retrieve the bottle for us.

We slapped some Fanta on top and it almost sort of didn't taste like rubbing alcohol.

Simply fabulous.

Sunday, November 25, 2007

mud

It's raining a lot so I bought an umbrella on Friday.

Then I lost it yesterday.

So typical.

Saturday, November 24, 2007

Giardia Stinks



I have giardia, but I'm dealing with it.

It caused many strange things to exit my body and also caused me to officially become a Peace Corps Volunteer. Yup…that’s right…

Honestly, it was a pretty rough week.

Yet after a riveting discussion on pinworms last Tuesday, my giardia seems quite lovely.

In other more important news, I found out where I’ll be for the next two years…I’ll be in the fabulous city of Yoleten in the region Mary, in southwest Turkmenistan. It’s a pretty big city, of about 25,000 people. I’m surprised because it means that things are going to be a lot easier for me than I expected. I might even have an internet café!

It couldn’t be a better fit…people just light up when describing Yoleten. Apparently it’s very green and they have a disco. That’ll be interesting…

The best part is that my new host mom is a Russian teacher, which makes my next project to commit as much time as I can to learning Russian.

What’s even more awesome is that I have fabulous people in my velayat (region) and I’m only about an hour from the velayat capital city Mary.

The next two years are going to be amazing. As long as I can fend off the pinworms, anyway…

Monday, November 19, 2007

The Worst Day

November 19, 2007


Yesterday was my worst day here.

My stomach was boiling but I went into Ashgabat anyway because I had so many things to do. Then I got to the office to find the Internet was down…on the one day I had to use it.

That was incredibly irritating.

Then my stomach was boiling more than ever and I was visiting the toilet constantly.

I had told my host family I’d cook for them in the evening though, so I didn’t want to let them down. I found myself wandering around the bazaar with a massive headache, a fever, a boiling stomach and a colon that was screaming for a toilet.

Then I felt myself become delirious. It was all I could do to keep from curling up into a ball right there on the dirty ground of the Teke Bazaar in Ashgabat.

So I made a few purchases without really being sure of what I was buying and got into the first taxi that would take me home. I paid way too much and the driver was complaining about something but I wasn’t listening. I just wanted to die.

I arrived home, took my temperature and swallowed some Ibuprofin, but it didn’t help. I started cutting up onions and felt myself getting hotter and hotter until one of the family members saw me and put her hand on my forehead.

That was the end of my cooking experience in Turkmenistan.

But I will say this…when Gyzulgul (the family gilneje) saw that I was so sick she was genuinely concerned and she took care of me. She brought me bananas (that I refused to eat) and made some weird grass and spearament concoction that she rubbed all over my back. Then she brought me tea with blackberries (although it sent me right to the toilet).

It’s good to have someone there for you when you’re away from home.

I love Letters

November 17, 2007

I walked up over a thousand steps today on the Health Walk outside Ashgabat…It was spectacular.

We find out on Tuesday where we’ll be for the next two years…I have a weird feeling that they’re going to put me in Mary, which is the southeast region of T-stan.

Turkmen words are replacing English ones, and conversation is flowing out like water.

With our Enlgish club theater work my load has quadrupled, but I love it.

Please send me letters by post mail (and include some waxed dental floss if you can). I love them, and all of you back home. Thanks for being so incredibly awesome.

English Words Are Flowing Out Like Endless Rain Into a Paper Cup

November 14, 2007


Our English club is in full swing and it’s my absolute favorite time of the day now. On Mondays and Wednesdays we work with 9th form kids and on Tuesdays and Thursdays we’re with 1st and 2nd form kids. So far they are absolutely loving it, and it puts a huge smile on my face every day.

Especially now that we’re going to be putting on a play in a few weeks…I’ve never been so excited about a project before!

The kids in the school love us beyond what you can imagine. I’ve received candy, cards, hugs, cheek kisses, handshakes, cookies, flowers and artwork from them since I’ve been here. And every single one of them knows my name and screams it out whenever they see me.

Never have I ever been so popular. It’s an awesome feeling.

Ups and Downs

November 12, 2007



My belly is full of amazing Turkish food and delicious cranberry juice. Man, it’s been awhile since I had juice. It’s sooooooooooooooooo GOOD.

The Turkish embassy hosted a concert and art show in Ashgabat tonight and so Kevin, Sarah and I went along. Dressed in our best, we hung out with ambassadors, enjoyed some spectacular music put on by the Turkish orchestra, and ate and ate and ate and ate.

What’s hilarious is that last night and this morning I was feeling like crap, thinking my stomach would never feel normal again, completely lacking motivation, depressed about how crappy my Turkmen language skills are and wondering what the heck I was doing in this country.

Eight hours later I’m at one of the finest cocktail parties on the planet.

The moral is that no matter how icky things seem, it’ll always get better.

And cavier & cranberry juice with embassy people from around the world is AWESOME.

Irritation

November 11, 2007




I’m sick of all the flies in my room constantly.

I hate chewing slow because there are tiny pebbles and bones in my food.

I really miss my iPod.

I hate how all my sweatpants are too baggy now that I can’t throw them in a dryer to tighten them up.

I sound like a whiny brat. I need to shut up.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Who Was I Then?

November 7, 2007


Today all 37 volunteers (yes, someone did leave back to the U.S. so we are 37 now) for some hub day fun and the topic of ‘who was I before I came here?’ came up.

It’s interesting because you find yourself settling for things you wouldn’t normally settle for, feeling stupid on a daily basis because you can’t communicate, eating things you wouldn’t normally eat and hiding things about yourself that you wouldn’t normally hide. Vegetarians aren’t vegetarians anymore and broccoli lovers just have to settle for cucumbers. And I’ve been eating tons and tons and tons of cucumbers.

So who was I six weeks ago?

I would have been a lot more irritated by how much gas I have.

I didn’t eat as much chocolate…and didn’t abuse it when I was feeling down.

I didn’t get excited about pooping solid.

I was much more irritated when I didn’t have internet access.

I didn’t care and didn’t think about the limited access to education in other countries.

I didn’t have to fend off wild dogs on my afternoon run.

I wouldn’t have accepted oily soup two times a day every day as acceptable nutrition.

I didn’t have to constantly watch where I step

I didn’t get drained and frustrated when I couldn’t communicate something to find myself giving up and looking like a fool in front of people who really want to talk with me.

I didn’t have nearly as much patience.

I hated eating fruit…now I am happy to eat at least two apples a day because it’s the best way for me to keep healthy over here.



Six more weeks until training is over…

Beauty

November 5, 2007

I ate an insane amount of candy today and now I have a stomach ache.

Today Gyzulgul, my host sister-in-law (gilneje) was mixing a weird solution together and she told me it was a face mask for my host mom, so I took some and put it on my face also.

It’s pretty much just rice and some type of honey they have here, and I thought it was wacky at first, but after about five minutes I could feel my face tightening up. It still feels kind of weird…

We attempted to begin our English club today but it didn’t quite work out since over four teachers were absent and we pretty much just ended up working as substitutes for another class while we were supposed to have the club. It didn’t go as well as we had planned.

I’ve finally incorporated the words “I’m joking” into my Turkmen vocabulary…it’s very helpful with my host family. Especially when my host sister started freaking out when I told her I was going to take photos of her when she started putting the weird rice mask thing on too.

O well…I think Turkmen women with rice and honey plastered to their face would have made for a lovely photo for America to see…

Sunday, November 04, 2007

Camels, Caves and Penelope

November 3, 2007

Tomorrow starts my sixth week here…life is still fabulous.

Two days ago my host family bought a cow and I named her Penelope.

My Turkmen is getting better J.

My iPod is dead, and is never coming back. I’m alright with it though…life goes on.

One of the students in my school made me a Halloween card, and it has the lyrics to “Jingle Bells” written on the inside. It’s pretty much the coolest thing ever.

My family told me Penelope cost about $200 and I can’t understand why a cow cost so little but a camel cost more than $500. So they told me that we’d go camel shopping together and we could see what sweet deals I can get on a baby camel J.

I went down into a cave yesterday and swam in the sulfuric water below. It was warm and supposedly has special healing powers, but it turned my silver ring black. My host mother gave me a stern look because she had told me not to swim in the water. Oh well…curiosity wins.

My host family is phenomenal and I love talking with them. I’m excited to go somewhere new once training is over next month, but I’m definitely going to Annau J.



Sunday, October 28, 2007

Let It Be

October 28, 2007


Today is T-stan Independence Day which means fun, fireworks and lotsa people. My host family and I went into Asgabat today, stopped into a café to have some cake and coffee, went to the theater (and I somewhat understood the storyline of the play, which made me extra proud of myself) and tried to watch the fireworks but by the time we got there it was too late, and it was over.

It was an awesome good time.

I was hanging out with my friend Jon today and he said he knows why RPCVs are so laid back…it’s unimaginable that any situation back home can be as bothersome as things you are confronted with here. I know I haven’t been here that long, but I believe it.

I thought of that as I cleaned up the mass grave of flies that’s been sitting in the corner of my room…and when I saw the massive crowd of people gathered around the front entrance of the theater before the ticket taker.

I wonder how ridiculous it would be to make it my goal to introduce the concept of lines to Turkmen people.

My Turkmen family says my Turkmen is getting really really good. I think I threw them off when I walked in and said, “Good morning, what’s new?” And we embarked upon a conversation about how we were all feeling very lazy and didn’t want to do anything. It was a nice, long breakfast…obviously because we didn’t feel like doing anything else. I really love my host family.

I have a big zit on my chin…probably from the excess of oil that I’m consuming in the food here. Next Saturday (Nov 3) we’re going to visit an underground lake. I can’t explain how excited I am to completely be covered in water. Not that tin cup/bucket showers aren’t satisfying, of course.

Tomorrow (Oct 29) is a big day…we’re being interviewed for permanent site placement…and I have to say that after our day camp experience with the kids I’m hoping to be placed in a new site that hasn’t had volunteers there yet. It will be kind of cool to be the first person to introduce new teaching methods and games and interactions with the kids. But anyway, all things happen for a reason; best to just let it be.

Wah Wah Haay

October 26, 2007


Independence Day weekend is here. I still love this country.

This morning I was enjoying a lovely breakfast with my family when my host dad walked in and started sharpening some knives.

“Towuk” he said, making a slicing motion with the knife.

I really thought he was joking.

“Wah wah hay,” I replied with a smile.

Then when I was brushing my teeth they brought out a metal pan where the dead chicken laid and set it on the ground in front of me, and started pouring boiling water over its lifeless body.

“Awwwwww…” I said while they laughed at the American who felt sympathy for tonight’s dinner.

I have to admit though…plov with chicken is damn good…

Hokey Pokey No More

October 24, 2007


Our three-day-long day camp adventure has finally ended today, and although it was great fun, and the kids absolutely loved it, I’m definitely glad it’s over.

The irony of this is just overwhelming. There were just three of us at Annau School #16 and we had over SIXTY kids show up today, on the last day. Over fifty came yesterday and we had around 35-40 on Monday.

Between the three of us, we spent about $8 altogether on supplies. That’s less than $3 a day to put these day camp activities together.

And the kids absolutely adored it.

We introduced them to the hokey pokey, duck duck goose, pictionary, and much much more. I have to say I’m just completely baffled by the little tiny things that make these kids so happy.

Many times after dinner I’ll go outside and play with the kids in my host family but at first I was very, very confused.

“Anjelie! Basketball! Play basketball!” they said.

“Ummm…but there’s no basket. Basket, nirede?” I asked.

“Basket yok!” they replied and just pointed to two different areas to show that those were the ‘baskets’.

And so we played basketball. And then volleyball. And we played some sort of weird version of bowling, and their version of dodgeball which I still don’t really understand.

The point is, that even with an old, half-flat soccer ball you can have the best time of your life, and if you show up somewhere, and give some kids your time and attention, they will soak it up and it will have an effect on them.

I love being here.

If You Can’t Beat Them…

October 21, 2007

Currently there are about forty-seven flies in my room.

It sounds like an exaggeration, but I assure you it’s the truth. I can count about 35 of them on my curtain right this second from where I’m sitting, and then another seven on the ceiling, and the rest are randomly buzzing about their merry way.

I honestly wouldn’t mind flies so much if it wasn’t for that damn BZZZZ noise they make…and if they didn’t fly right up into my face every ten seconds. If they were quiet and just minded their own business, it would be cool. We could co-exist happily inside my room.

But these little buggers will NOT leave me the heck alone.

So I tried the fly swatting game (thanks gratefully to Katie’s handy dandy fly swatter- seriously Katie, I don’t know what I would do without this thing. And you probably have no idea how much that going away present really ended up being a part of my life) and I have since created a mass grave in the corner of my room. I tried opening the door, and shooing out the ones that were stuck to the curtain…with no luck at all. And I tried just sitting here, waiting for them to come to me so that I could go in for the kill.

But I’m getting really sick and tired of playing attack the fly so now I’m just peacefully sitting here, typing away, with my handy dandy fly swatter by my side.

Oh well…it’s my fault anyway. I’ve now learned the hard way what happens when I leave my door, window and curtain open for two whole hours in the afternoon.

Friday, October 19, 2007

life is beautiful



Im feeling MUCH much better. I think a lot of the reason why I was so sick was because I was dehydrated…I didn’t have my water filter up and running, and also the bathrooms at the school ridiculously lack privacy so I was purposely trying not to drink too many liquids during the day. But now I’ve stopped all that nonsense because when ya gotta go, ya gotta go and it doesn’t really matter where you go as long as you go right?

I’ve started drinking soda again because it’s like one of the all time favorites here. Apple soda, apricot sodas, orange sodas etc. I keep thinking about the times I made fun of Danielle for drinking orange soda . The Turkmen word for sweet is also the word for delicious, so my first night here when I was offered some fabulous Turkmen orange soda and I said no, “halamok, sujyk” meaning I don’t want it because it’s too sweet, but found out later I was saying no I don’t want it, it’s delicious. Pssshh!

Turkmen is coming along steadily and language classes are a ton of fun. I usually help one of my host sisters with her English homework, and today we had a lovely cross cultural experience. I said “Oh My Gosh!” over something…I forgot what exactly, and she was like “Ohh…meey…goshe?” And I tried to explain the expression, comparing it to ‘Oh My God’ and then she was like oh! “Allahjan!” Which means, Oh Allah! Hahahaha Same shit, different country. I also tried to teach her “Oh Shit” also but I don’t think she got that one.

So apparently they have a telegraph office here and on a whim we decided to go check it out. I’ve only ever seen one on a Little House on the Prarie episode, so it was pretty interesting. My fellow volunteer, Kevin, tried to send one to another volunteer in a different village and after he finally filled out the form and turned it in it took about ten minutes for them to explain that they don’t send messages in English, which was hilarious!


Tonight I went out to the washroom to take a bucket shower and was half way done rinsing out my shampoo when I realized I had forgotten my towel. I just stopped and thought ‘awwwww man…I’m retarded.” And I pulled on my clothes even though I was sopping wet, with sopping wet hair and muddled through the compound in the freezing cold rain to my room to my fabulous ‘fast drying towel.’


Alrighty I should take off now. I miss everyone! And I really really really miss your hugs. I’ve had about three hugs since I’ve been here and it’s just not the same.

See ya!

Love Angela

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

October 14, 2007

October 14, 2007

Today I did the dishes.

It doesn’t sound complicated, but it’s really not all that easy here. And I’m a little concerned because they don’t have any dish soap here. Maybe I’ll go buy some today.

I spent a lovely afternoon with my host family enjoying the 108th cup of tea I’ve had since I’ve been in this country over the past 11 days. I realized that I really like sitting on the floor and I really like tea. Too bad I have no clue what anyone is saying, ever.

But I’m making sentences. I successfully explained what I did yesterday, what I’m doing today, and what I’m doing tomorrow to my host family. And that I do not have any children. I think they asked why, but I didn’t even bother to go there. In Turkmen standards, to be 26 and unmarried without children is pretty uncool.

Yesterday at lunch we watched some Turkmen music videos and it was pretty much the most hilarious thing I’ve ever seen. I’m going to have to find the Turkmen Black Eyed Peas dvd and bring it home with me after my time here is up.

Today my fellow Annau village volunteers and I are going on a quest to find a cold beer in this town…if we are successful, I will be a very, happy person. Most places don’t chill beverages here…they’re just sold warm anywhere you go. Don’t ask why, I have no clue. I have actually had two cold drinks since I’ve been in this country: one cold beer at the hotel in Asgabat, and then one cold coke at my fellow volunteer Kevin’s rich mom’s house. Yup that’s it.

I’m going to be truthful and admit that I really like it here. I can’t conjugate verbs and I miss wearing jeans and I’ve started drinking soda again but I’m content. I like walking everywhere, and I like not having a cell phone. I like the people here and I think things are going very, very well so far.

October 13, 2007

October 13, 2007

Today I fell in love with the Turkmen people.

I arrived back at home tonight shortly before 10:00 p.m. to find the gate locked. Now, I’ve been here a week so I didn’t even know they locked the gate at night, and plus I had told them I was going out and would be back between 9:30-10:00pm.

So I knocked and yelled, but nobody came. I knocked and yelled some more, and still had no answer. I tried climbing the gate on the right hand side, but my lack of upper body strength caused me to fail miserably. I tried going over the neighbor’s fence only to be met with a ferocious dog seconds away from attacking me.

So I tried crawling under the fence, but that only resulted in me completely dirtying my fresh, clean clothes.

So I knocked and yelled some more and like the dork I am, started to cry. I was so frustrated! Why had they locked the gate? Why was no one coming when I knocked and yelled?

Then a car pulled up and I thought, holy crap this is it they’re going to jump me. They’re going to take my T-stan ID and passport and dump my body outside of town by the breadmaker’s house.

But that didn’t happen.

Three guys and one girl got out of the car and smiled at me and asked me if I needed help (at least I think that’s what they said). I explained to them in broken Turkmen that I lived there and I couldn’t get in. They started all pounding on the gate together and honking their horn, and we had a good laugh about how I was stuck outside my house.

“You are an English teacher!” one of them said. I think he might have recognized me from the school. I don’t really know. I was just grateful to have someone with me.

They stayed there with me and helped me until someone finally came and opened the gate. I wanted to give them a gigantic hug, but unfortunately that’s inappropriate in Turkmen culture. I hope I see them again…they will always be my first Turkmen friends.

October 10, 2007

October 10, 2007

So tomorrow we get to go into Ashgabat and get the second round of vaccinations and a lovely tour of the Peace Corps office. Being the person who I am I naturally left all the emails I needed to write to tonight and OF COURSE the electricity just went out. Of course.

So now I’m sitting here, in the dark, in a compound full of unruly loud children who love to randomly throw open the door to see the weird American girl sitting in the dark in front of the computer that now has about 80 percent battery life left.

But nevertheless I’m going to blog until I possibly can’t anymore because Internet is a precious, precious thing that I have been looking forward to for an entire week now and I’m going to get out as much as possible.

Today I got to spend some time in the school I’ll be working in for the next three months. The second I walked in, twenty 12-year-olds jumped to their feet and yelled at the top of their lungs, “GOOD AFTERNOON, TEACHER!”

It was pretty awesome. I might even say that was the highlight of my day because it was so damn cute.

The children were so eager to learn…they were waving their hands around like crazy hoping to get called on. Every girl wears a green dress and white apron, with her hair tied in two braids and a little hat on top. Boys’ uniforms consist of black pants, white shirt, tie, jacket, cute little hat and shiny black shoes. They’re absolutely adorable!

The food thing is just taking time to get used to…I suppose it’s my body’s way of adjusting to the new bacteria in the food, or the lack of preservatives since everything here is natural. In the morning I eat eggs that are from the chickens in the yard, bread that is baked in the oven outside, etc.

Turkmenistan is known for its melons…I think there’s around 1100 different kinds here, and I’ve had about 3 of them so far which isn’t bad for a person who doesn’t really like fruit, but the desert air and the gastric calamities have caused me to be dehydrated so I’m forcing myself to eat anything that has lots of water.

I see different camels every day to and from school…either tied up in someone’s yard or just randomly wandering throughout an empty lot of dirt, grazing on random plants here and there. The first time I saw one I jumped up and down in excitement…then by the 6th or 7th time it started to not matter anymore.

Our country director came and had lunch with us today, and the nine of us sat around the large tablecloth on the floor of Liz’s host mom’s house and ate plov and drank tea and soda. He told us that he was standing at a bazaar one day and a kid asked him if he was American. When he responded that he was with the Peace Corps the child told him with excitement that his English teacher was with the Peace Corps and that now he is planning on going to college in America because of her.

Because of HER.

To one person, you may be the world.

In the Beginning… (Oct 9th, 2007)

In the Beginning…

We had a wonderful four days in Ashgabat when we first arrived here in T-stan but Saturday was our last day in the capital, and the serious training has now begun…for the next three months my life is going to be much more stressful, and extremely hectic. We have language and culture training six days a week, and then soon we’re going to actually start spending some time in the classrooms at the local school. All 38 volunteers have been spread out, outside of Ashgabat, in various villages. I’m in the village Annau which is about fifteen minutes south of Ashgabat. I can actually see the mountains that border Iran from my house. How many other people that you know can say that?

All is well on the north middle eastern front J.

What can I say about Ashgabat? If you’ve ever wanted to see a ton of gleaming white buildings in one place, it’s definitely where you want to be. Other than that, I don’t know much about the capital, except that you can get away wearing pretty much whatever you want (within reason) here.

Turkmenistan has a country-wide curfew of 11:00pm. If you’re out past then on the streets you will be stopped by a police officer. I received my official T-stan ID booklet last week and it’s pretty spiffy.

Every car is a cab here, and basically 5000-10,000 manat (about 20-40 cents) will get you anywhere you need to go. You just walk to the side of the road and put your hand out, and someone will stop for you. Everybody does it here, and seatbelts are pretty much never used.

Turkmenistan is a Muslim country so Christmas for us is not a holiday. We don’t get it off at all…it is just another day of work. I guess I could whine and moan about it, but I’m sure us Americans will figure out something to do to celebrate anyway.

The squatter in my house is basically a ceramic basin with a small hole at the bottom. The problem is you have to really be able to aim appropriately…the hole isn’t all that big. But it’s all good…I’m just grateful that there is a light in the bathroom….

I bought a box of Barf the other day, which is coincidentally the Iranian brand of laundry detergent. But then I found some Tide at the local bazaar so I’m thinking I might do a nice switch and bring home the barf for the friends and family that ever so want it. Who doesn’t want barf in a box?

My home life is extremely chaotic and it’s a bit unnerving at times…I have a phenomenal host family but there’s so many people that it can be pretty crazy. Tonight, for example, there were even more people over and my host mom was rushing around upset about something and people were bustling around like crazy so I decided it was best to retire early and finish emails rather than be social…something that I don’t normally do. Last night I helped my host sister with her English homework and had some help by everyone else with my Turkmen.

We’re all about the cross cultural experiences here, that’s for sure.

Especially when you’re walking to school and you see graffiti such as “Punk Not Dead” on the wall, and someone drives by bumping Enrique Iglesias in Russian.

The bizarre cross-cultural experiences keep coming…and I’m loving every minute of it. Just wait till you see the Turkmen Black Eyed Peas! No words can explain it. It’s simply the most exquisite of its kind.

Ode to Pepto Bismo (Oct 7, 2007)

Pepto Bismol you are my friend

You make my pain come to an end

Never did I ever think

I would love something so pink

I will eat you every day

Until my sickness goes away

Thank you for being here by my side

And soothing out this bumpy ride

Pepto Bismol I love you so

I will never let you go

Girls Rule Boys Drool (Oct 6, 2007)

Girls Rule Boys Drool

Never have I ever had such an amazing night like tonight. I am absolutely KICKING myself for not bringing my video camera along on this adventure because there’s no way I can capture the charisma and genuine overall beauty of tonight simply with words.

I met my host family this afternoon and like everyone else’s first meeting it was awkward and quiet because the only things I know in Turkmen are hello, how are you, how old are you, what job do you do and are you married?

Oh and I can count to 1000 also. But anyway, it was awkward. Plus my stomach was just barely feeling the effects of the mother load of Pepto Bismol and Ibuprofen I had taken due to gastric calamities, so I sat there picking at some rice and cucumbers, sipping on soda water and smiling and nodding and saying, “Gowy!” (good!) at everything that was said to me.

So we arrived at my new home (for the next three months) and it is pretty much waaaaay better than I expected. My room is on the upper level with my own private entrance and I have a fold out bed, wardrobe, table and chair. I was surprised because it’s the most furniture I’ve seen in the whole house. In Turkmen culture you sit and the floor, eat on the floor, lay on pillows on the floor, etc, so there really isn’t any furniture. Another thing that made me happy was there is a light in the squatter, as well as a lock on the door. And it doesn’t smell nearly as bad as I thought it would in there (but it’s still pretty raunchy…just gotta hold my breath).

In the washroom there are two barrels of water that are heated by gas, and a little scooper next to it so basically you just scoop up some water and pour it on yourself to wash yourself. I’m really glad I brought my flip flops.

So as soon as I got here we all sat down on the floor around a table cloth and enjoyed some lovely tea. I pointed to my stomach and made a sad face when I was offered any food…I didn’t really want to risk it. My family consists of the mother and father, their five kids and the spouses of the five kids, and then their 12 grandchildren. There are a ton of people here, and the kids are absolutely hilarious! The youngest girl is just so cute! I’ll have to start taking some photos of them soon.

Then later, after I somewhat unpacked, we all had dinner. The men were served their dinner in the other room on trays, but the women and children (and myself) all sat around the table cloth on the floor and had a fabulous dinner. I didn’t eat anything except for some bread due to my gastric calamities, but it was the most fun I’ve ever had at dinner in my life. This family is so charismatic and animated, and although the severe language barrier, it was awesome. We kept making toasts because it was one of the kids’ birthdays, and they even had me do one in English! After dinner we had cake (which I DID eat, and it was very, very good) and sang happy birthday in English to the little one while he sat there with a huge cheesy grin on his 10-year-old face.

Then came the after dinner fun…

“You like dance?” Jemel, the sixteen-year-old granddaughter said with a smile.

“Uhhh…hawa?” I responded.

I was motioned to follow her into the other room (also without furniture, except for a large entertainment center and a few pillows) with all the children and the women and I sat down on the floor. Jemel put in a cd and all the kids started dancing around like crazy. My host mom sat in a rocking chair and clapped her hands and then the other women started dancing also and motioned for me to join them.

I cannot describe how much fun it was, it was our own little dance party. We danced to Shakira, Akon, and then a bunch of Turkmen music. I just started mimicking the other women with their Turkmen dance and we were laughing so hard I was crying. My host mom said that was the best souvenir. It was so much fun that I even forgot about my gastric calamities and started to actually feel pretty awesome.

One thing is definitely for sure: This may be a male-dominated society, but it’s the girls who truly know how to have fun.

Sunday, September 30, 2007

hehe

me: "Men size suyji balyk tutyp berdim." (I caught you a delicious bass.)

Ronn: You should use the Peace Corps to try to bring back the word "pork" to indicate sexual activity.
haha
Gosh!

8:16 PM Ronn: Do you think you'll be using that line often? About the bass?

me: we'll see
:)

8:17 PM Ronn: Oh Angela. You're so hip, I'll bet you have trouble seeing over your pelvis.

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Stress

Fact: Moving out of the country is stressful.

But moving out of the country after only giving yourself ONE WEEK to take care of everything is ridiculous.

In the past week, I have left my job, moved out of my apartment, bounced around from friends and family saying my good byes, was thrown an absolutely PHENOMENAL, mind-blowing surprise going-away party, hauled all my stuff to my parent's house, hauled another ton of stuff to the Goodwill, spent hours organizing things into various crevices in their garage, screamed and freaked out at my boyfriend and mother at least three separate times, ate a ton of sushi, slapped, hit and kicked my suitcases for not fitting all my stuff, and proceeded to bang my head against the wall because even at the very last minute I still wasn't ready.

But it's my own fault. Who waits till the day before they're leaving the country to cancel their cell phone? Sometimes I want to kick my own ass.

All that aside, I am now chilled out and happily taking deep, stress-free breaths of fresh air in my lovely Holiday Inn hotel room in Washington, D.C. I still have that panic feeling every now and then, but it's happening less and less because it doesn't really matter if I've forgotten something now, does it?

Monday I'll be on that plane heading over the Atlantic to my new home without my favorite sweatshirt, and without my favorite jacket...without my sleeping bag and without all the other stuff I forgot or just didn't have room for. But whatever! I'll still get there and I'll still survive just fine.

Friday, September 21, 2007

Good Advice

Sir Loins1014 (8:39:22 AM): I'm back, but I'm out of baby wipes now.
DropKck1 (8:39:46 AM): LOL
DropKck1 (8:39:52 AM): i was told to bring those along also
Sir Loins1014 (8:40:09 AM): I swear by them.
DropKck1 (8:41:02 AM): what brand?
Sir Loins1014 (8:41:12 AM): I started using them in basic (after about a 20 year hiatus) and they're great.
Sir Loins1014 (8:41:12 AM): You feel a little squishy at first, but that evaporates.
DropKck1 (8:41:42 AM): hehe
Sir Loins1014 (8:43:31 AM): I was using... wet ones I think.
Sir Loins1014 (8:43:31 AM): But anything is fine, however!
Sir Loins1014 (8:43:31 AM): Clorox disinfectant wipes come similarly packaged to Wet Ones.
Sir Loins1014 (8:43:31 AM): But they are NOT for sensitive areas.
DropKck1 (8:44:01 AM): HAHAHAHA

Thursday, September 20, 2007

My Freak Out Song

I have now spent the majority of the evening staring blankly around my messy room and I realize I have not made the slightest dent in the enormous load of things I have to take care of before I leave.

This is really, really bothering me.

Why am I such a procrastinator? It's like a disease, thankfully not bad enough to get me medically disqualified from the Peace Corps, but bad enough that I will be freaking out until I am finally on that plane.

With that in mind, I think that everyone needs a freak out song. You know, the song that plays over and over inside your head whenever you're freaking out. Mine gets louder with the situation. For instance, when I'm getting a cavity filled and the dentist begins drilling...it's pretty much exploding inside my head. I guess it's my way of screaming at myself to let me know that everything is going to be okay.

I don't really know why, but for the past few years my freak out song has been "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" which leads me to wonder why, for some reason, Judy Garland in a pair of ruby red slippers in the land of Oz, is somewhat calming to me.

So then what will Turkmen music be like and will it get ridiculously stuck in my head like a bloody Wham! song?

Check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqW7Q2crk04

And if anyone asks me why the heck those men wear such big hats...well...

http://www.turkmenistaninfo.ru/?page_id=6&type=article&elem_id=page_6/magazine_33/264&lang_id=en

""A fur hat, a headwear of Turkmen men, is an embodiment of strength and courage. A hat is worn not for keeping head warm, but for the honor. A Turkmen never leaves a hat. If you have no one to speak to, talk to a hat."

Awesome. Simply awesome.

Saturday, September 01, 2007

There are no coincidences...

In the words of Dumbledore:

"Let us step out and pursue that mighty temptress, adventure."

Twenty-nine days to go...