I have been back in the USA for three weeks now and it has been a strange experience.
I had forgotten about things like traffic, high-speed internet and large selections of salad dressings in supermarkets.
Truthfully it hasn't been easy...I keep in contact with my friends and family in Turkmenistan, but of course it isn't the same. We talk about what I've missed over the past two months and laugh about how I am forgetting my language skills.
But every time I go to a yoga class, concert, or book shop out here, I remind myself that this is where I need to be.
So what's next? After a nice break at my parent's house in Los Angeles I am moving back up to San Francisco.
I think about Turkmenistan every day, but life goes on, and hopefully someday in the future I will be able to return.
Tuesday, March 09, 2010
Tuesday, February 02, 2010
Lao Lao
Three weeks after I've left Turkmenistan and my head is still spinning.
I met my friend Veronica in Hanoi to bounce around SE Asia for a bit and we had a blast. Took motorbikes across Vietnam into Laos because the country, the scenery, the EVERYTHING was soooo beautiful.
But when we got across the border we realized we were in the middle of nowhere...no people, no cars, nothing.
Then all of a sudden a random pickup truck came bouncing along and we flagged him down. The nice man let us hitch a ride in the back of his truck and took us all the way to the next city.
Bumping along through the mountains, we made it there in one piece, and the next day took off to Phonsavan, a city that brought reality home for us because of the UXO presence still alive in the country. Apparently some 5 million bombs still lie scattered throughout the country and the level of danger is adamant.
The cleanup process has cleared only about 3 percent and millions more still need to be taken care of...a situation I was not at all aware of before coming here.
After we spent our time in Phonsavan, we hopped on a bus to Vang Vieng and spent the next three days in a daze of kayaks, caves, and floating along the river inside of a giant tube.
Next stop: Sydney :)
I met my friend Veronica in Hanoi to bounce around SE Asia for a bit and we had a blast. Took motorbikes across Vietnam into Laos because the country, the scenery, the EVERYTHING was soooo beautiful.
But when we got across the border we realized we were in the middle of nowhere...no people, no cars, nothing.
Then all of a sudden a random pickup truck came bouncing along and we flagged him down. The nice man let us hitch a ride in the back of his truck and took us all the way to the next city.
Bumping along through the mountains, we made it there in one piece, and the next day took off to Phonsavan, a city that brought reality home for us because of the UXO presence still alive in the country. Apparently some 5 million bombs still lie scattered throughout the country and the level of danger is adamant.
The cleanup process has cleared only about 3 percent and millions more still need to be taken care of...a situation I was not at all aware of before coming here.
After we spent our time in Phonsavan, we hopped on a bus to Vang Vieng and spent the next three days in a daze of kayaks, caves, and floating along the river inside of a giant tube.
Next stop: Sydney :)
Monday, January 25, 2010
Wild in the Streets
Ten hours after leaving T-stan:
I arrive in Bangkok and wander around for two hours trying to find a place to stay. I guess it's the high season.
Eight hours after arriving in Vietnam:
I am attacked by a dog and he bites my ankle. Don't worry, I've had three different rounds of rabies vaccinations...no symptoms yet.
Two hours later:
I fall into a swamp.
The next day:
A 15 km trek through the jungle of Cat Ba Island off the coast of North Vietnam...quite similar to Pandora but we only saw one monkey and no Navi
Two days later:
We're flooded out of Hanoi. The rain is coming down so hard and I am a happy bubble of warmth inside a big, blue poncho.
A few days after that:
Roaming around Hoi An, Vietnam I run into a Russian/Israeli/Australian/French dude and we immediately start babbling on and on in Russian about the greatness of Central Asian food.
And I am immediately homesick for plov but grateful to be able to have this weird thing in common with another person out here on the coast of Vietnam.
Next stop: Laos
I arrive in Bangkok and wander around for two hours trying to find a place to stay. I guess it's the high season.
Eight hours after arriving in Vietnam:
I am attacked by a dog and he bites my ankle. Don't worry, I've had three different rounds of rabies vaccinations...no symptoms yet.
Two hours later:
I fall into a swamp.
The next day:
A 15 km trek through the jungle of Cat Ba Island off the coast of North Vietnam...quite similar to Pandora but we only saw one monkey and no Navi
Two days later:
We're flooded out of Hanoi. The rain is coming down so hard and I am a happy bubble of warmth inside a big, blue poncho.
A few days after that:
Roaming around Hoi An, Vietnam I run into a Russian/Israeli/Australian/French dude and we immediately start babbling on and on in Russian about the greatness of Central Asian food.
And I am immediately homesick for plov but grateful to be able to have this weird thing in common with another person out here on the coast of Vietnam.
Next stop: Laos
Friday, January 15, 2010
Good Bye
I knew it was coming but wasn't sure how I'd feel leaving Turkmenistan.
I spent the last few days rigorously saying my good-byes, but not really feeling the blow just yet.
The night before I left Yoloten I had dinner at my best friend in Yoloten's house and we hugged each other and cried and made plans to hopefully see each other again and never lose contact.
I visited some students right before leaving Yoloten and we hugged and I promised to help them with anything I possibly could in the future.
And standing at the airport with my friends, we stood there and cried and held each other and promised to never forget.
And I sat on the plane continuously calling and texting random friend and family, still saying good-bye.
As the plane started moving the tears started flowing uncontrollably and I couldn't believe I was actually leaving.
I'll never forget.
The past two years have been the best two years of my life.
I spent the last few days rigorously saying my good-byes, but not really feeling the blow just yet.
The night before I left Yoloten I had dinner at my best friend in Yoloten's house and we hugged each other and cried and made plans to hopefully see each other again and never lose contact.
I visited some students right before leaving Yoloten and we hugged and I promised to help them with anything I possibly could in the future.
And standing at the airport with my friends, we stood there and cried and held each other and promised to never forget.
And I sat on the plane continuously calling and texting random friend and family, still saying good-bye.
As the plane started moving the tears started flowing uncontrollably and I couldn't believe I was actually leaving.
I'll never forget.
The past two years have been the best two years of my life.
Hollywood in Yoloten
January 11, 2010
Random people have been telling me for weeks that something was going to happen today, but I didn't quite know what. My students told me specifically:
Make sure Monday January 11 you are free from 3:00 until 10:00. Be at home and await instructions.
"Angela did you know there's going to be a party for you at the disco on Monday night?" a friend of mine told me last night.
"Ahhhh...so it's at the disco..." I said with a smile. It's hard to keep secrets in such a small town.
At about 4:30 a student showed up with a piece of paper with instructions: Do you think California is the only place for Hollywood? Well you're wrong! Follow the arrows throughout our lovely town to find Yoloten's own Hollywood
So a few other volunteers and I wandered through the streets following the arrows that they had strategically posted and then when we arrived at the park two of them jumped out of a nearby car and kidnapped me. We drove around the block until we got to the door of the disco where all my students screamed "SURPRISE!"
It was incredible...they made a Hollywood-themed party and named it the Yoloten Angels Awards.
Throughout the disco they hung their projects from the past two years...the posters they made for Earth Day, the vision boards they made for their future, etc.
They presented everyone with different awards for the work they did throughout the past two years, and throughout the awards they did different songs and dances. It was absolutely INCREDIBLE.
I can't even describe how much time and effort those kids put into that party. They said they'd been working on it for over two months, practicing dance routines, etc.
At the end they presented me with my award: 'Best Angel'.
It was the most fantastic night... one that will live in my memory forever.
Random people have been telling me for weeks that something was going to happen today, but I didn't quite know what. My students told me specifically:
Make sure Monday January 11 you are free from 3:00 until 10:00. Be at home and await instructions.
"Angela did you know there's going to be a party for you at the disco on Monday night?" a friend of mine told me last night.
"Ahhhh...so it's at the disco..." I said with a smile. It's hard to keep secrets in such a small town.
At about 4:30 a student showed up with a piece of paper with instructions: Do you think California is the only place for Hollywood? Well you're wrong! Follow the arrows throughout our lovely town to find Yoloten's own Hollywood
So a few other volunteers and I wandered through the streets following the arrows that they had strategically posted and then when we arrived at the park two of them jumped out of a nearby car and kidnapped me. We drove around the block until we got to the door of the disco where all my students screamed "SURPRISE!"
It was incredible...they made a Hollywood-themed party and named it the Yoloten Angels Awards.
Throughout the disco they hung their projects from the past two years...the posters they made for Earth Day, the vision boards they made for their future, etc.
They presented everyone with different awards for the work they did throughout the past two years, and throughout the awards they did different songs and dances. It was absolutely INCREDIBLE.
I can't even describe how much time and effort those kids put into that party. They said they'd been working on it for over two months, practicing dance routines, etc.
At the end they presented me with my award: 'Best Angel'.
It was the most fantastic night... one that will live in my memory forever.
Twenty five dolla make you Holla
January 9, 2010
Turkmenistan is, overall, an extremely safe country. With the exception of a few insane taxi rides and an unpleasant incident with my banya gas heater, I have never felt my life was in immediate danger.
Turkmen people are, for the most part, extremely gentle and that's one thing I love the most about being here.
Yet today, five days before my departure, I had an encounter unlike any other. I was in a city about 45 minutes north of Yoloten and I got in a taxi heading home. Unfortunately, when we stopped in Turkmengala, fifteen minutes away from Yoloten, everyone else in the taxi got out.
"Are you still going to Yoloten?" I asked.
"Yes," he said. "We'll just wait for more people to come."
And then he looked at me long and hard and asked me where I was from. I told him I was from the America and he proceeded to stare at me.
"You are SO beautiful," he said. "I really, REALLY like you."
And he continued to stare at me and tell me how much he liked me, making no effort at all whatsoever to find other clients for his taxi.
"Uhhhh...okay dude are you going to Yoloten or what?" I asked.
"I really, REALLY like you," he said. "Can I kiss you?"
"NO!!!!!" I yelled. "If you're not going to Yoloten, then just tell me so I can find someone else!"
"I'll go, I'll go," he said. But he continued to stare at me. "I really, REALLY like you."
He reached over to the glove compartment and pulled out some money. About 25 dollars worth of manat. He leaned over and handed me the money.
"This is for you," he said. "I really, REALLY like you."
I immediately freaked out.
"WHY are you giving me this money!?!" I screamed at him. "WHY!"
"Because I REALLY like you," he said with a creepy smile.
"I do NOT want your money!" I yelled and threw it back at him. Luckily at that moment a bus going to Yoloten pulled up to the taxi stand. I jumped out of the car and headed toward the bus.
"Wait, you didn't pay me for the taxi ride!" he yelled.
"YOU are an asshole and you should be ashamed of yourself," I said to him in English as I shoved my taxi fare at him.
"But I don't know English," he said.
"Oh, go to hell," I replied.
Turkmenistan is, overall, an extremely safe country. With the exception of a few insane taxi rides and an unpleasant incident with my banya gas heater, I have never felt my life was in immediate danger.
Turkmen people are, for the most part, extremely gentle and that's one thing I love the most about being here.
Yet today, five days before my departure, I had an encounter unlike any other. I was in a city about 45 minutes north of Yoloten and I got in a taxi heading home. Unfortunately, when we stopped in Turkmengala, fifteen minutes away from Yoloten, everyone else in the taxi got out.
"Are you still going to Yoloten?" I asked.
"Yes," he said. "We'll just wait for more people to come."
And then he looked at me long and hard and asked me where I was from. I told him I was from the America and he proceeded to stare at me.
"You are SO beautiful," he said. "I really, REALLY like you."
And he continued to stare at me and tell me how much he liked me, making no effort at all whatsoever to find other clients for his taxi.
"Uhhhh...okay dude are you going to Yoloten or what?" I asked.
"I really, REALLY like you," he said. "Can I kiss you?"
"NO!!!!!" I yelled. "If you're not going to Yoloten, then just tell me so I can find someone else!"
"I'll go, I'll go," he said. But he continued to stare at me. "I really, REALLY like you."
He reached over to the glove compartment and pulled out some money. About 25 dollars worth of manat. He leaned over and handed me the money.
"This is for you," he said. "I really, REALLY like you."
I immediately freaked out.
"WHY are you giving me this money!?!" I screamed at him. "WHY!"
"Because I REALLY like you," he said with a creepy smile.
"I do NOT want your money!" I yelled and threw it back at him. Luckily at that moment a bus going to Yoloten pulled up to the taxi stand. I jumped out of the car and headed toward the bus.
"Wait, you didn't pay me for the taxi ride!" he yelled.
"YOU are an asshole and you should be ashamed of yourself," I said to him in English as I shoved my taxi fare at him.
"But I don't know English," he said.
"Oh, go to hell," I replied.
Monday, January 04, 2010
Still in the Kara Kum
Everyone makes fun of me for staying a few extra weeks after my Peace Corps Close of Service (COS) but I don't care.
These last few weeks have been fantastic...I've had time to get TWO more dresses made, I've reconnected with local friends I hadn't seen in a long time, and it gave me time to get one last round of parasites in my belly.
I have ten days, and a long list of things that have to get done before I leave this country, and I don't know if I'll make it, but like every year, I resolve to be more organized. Yes, my American friends and family, I know you're laughing hysterically at this.
My students continually come by my house to talk, hang out, ask for help with some random thing, etc, and as the days go by, I'm beginning to freak out a little bit more.
Ten more days...
These last few weeks have been fantastic...I've had time to get TWO more dresses made, I've reconnected with local friends I hadn't seen in a long time, and it gave me time to get one last round of parasites in my belly.
I have ten days, and a long list of things that have to get done before I leave this country, and I don't know if I'll make it, but like every year, I resolve to be more organized. Yes, my American friends and family, I know you're laughing hysterically at this.
My students continually come by my house to talk, hang out, ask for help with some random thing, etc, and as the days go by, I'm beginning to freak out a little bit more.
Ten more days...
Happy Birthday to Me
December 30, 2009
Having a birthday so close to New Year’s Eve definitely has more minuses than pluses but over the years I’ve gotten used to it.
Yet this year was pretty cool.
I was in the kitchen preparing food for tonight and my host sister was outside sweeping, cleaning up for the guests that were coming in another two hours.
All of a sudden we heard a gigantic BOOM! And a firecracker landed in our yard, followed by another one. My poor host sister freaked out and threw open the gate to yell at whoever was doing this, only to be met with all my students singing at the top of their lungs, “HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU!!!!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU!”
I ran out of the kitchen and my host sister was laughing so hard she was crying; it was absolutely hilarious. They brought cakes and cookies and presents and it was so incredibly sweet.
What a great birthday
Having a birthday so close to New Year’s Eve definitely has more minuses than pluses but over the years I’ve gotten used to it.
Yet this year was pretty cool.
I was in the kitchen preparing food for tonight and my host sister was outside sweeping, cleaning up for the guests that were coming in another two hours.
All of a sudden we heard a gigantic BOOM! And a firecracker landed in our yard, followed by another one. My poor host sister freaked out and threw open the gate to yell at whoever was doing this, only to be met with all my students singing at the top of their lungs, “HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU!!!!! HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU!”
I ran out of the kitchen and my host sister was laughing so hard she was crying; it was absolutely hilarious. They brought cakes and cookies and presents and it was so incredibly sweet.
What a great birthday
Eat FRESH!
December 26, 2009
Christmas 2009.
Scene: My friend Dan and I have just killed a chicken for dinner. Well, he did the actual killing since I’m a girl I’m forbidden to end the life of an animal. I’m pouring boiling water over the carcass and plucking out the feathers.
“Man, this takes FOREVER! I swear Turkmen are so good at this,” I complained. “When my relatives from the village do this it only takes them like, ten minutes.”
“Well, think of it this way,” Dan said. “They’d probably have a really tough time ordering a Subway sandwich.”
True that.
Christmas 2009.
Scene: My friend Dan and I have just killed a chicken for dinner. Well, he did the actual killing since I’m a girl I’m forbidden to end the life of an animal. I’m pouring boiling water over the carcass and plucking out the feathers.
“Man, this takes FOREVER! I swear Turkmen are so good at this,” I complained. “When my relatives from the village do this it only takes them like, ten minutes.”
“Well, think of it this way,” Dan said. “They’d probably have a really tough time ordering a Subway sandwich.”
True that.
Friday, December 18, 2009
The End of an Era
December 17, 2009
Today was my last day of work as a United States Peace Corps volunteer in Turkmenistan.
It definitely hasn’t hit me yet…I knew it was my last English class today, I gave my address to all my students and we hugged and ate cake and took pictures, but it doesn’t quite feel like the end.
Maybe because I’m sticking around for a few extra weeks after my end of service December 23. Maybe when I get in the taxi on January 14 I’ll start freaking out. It’s quite possible.
I can’t believe I did it. Seriously…I can’t believe I did this. I can’t believe I spent 27 months in this country and I’m still alive and well.
I end my Peace Corps experience with the ability to fully communicate in Russian and Turkmen, ten pounds lighter in size, but a hundred pounds heavier in experience.
I end my Peace Corps experience with more parasites than I have ever had in my life, but with less severances than I had before.
I end my Peace Corps experience with a foggy view of the future, but a beautiful picture of my past.
I end Peace Corps a whole lot stronger, with a hell of a wider outlook on life, and a massive Russian pop music collection.
I’m trying to remember the person I was when I left Washington D.C. on October 1, 2007 and it’s hard. It feels like it was a decade ago. I look at photos and see the clothes I wore and how short my hair was and I think wow that’s so weird. I think of my daily activities in the month before I left the US and it’s not comparable to my daily activities here.
It’s just weird.
I end Peace Corps a little freaked out, but I have three more weeks in this desert community to figure it all out.
Today was my last day of work as a United States Peace Corps volunteer in Turkmenistan.
It definitely hasn’t hit me yet…I knew it was my last English class today, I gave my address to all my students and we hugged and ate cake and took pictures, but it doesn’t quite feel like the end.
Maybe because I’m sticking around for a few extra weeks after my end of service December 23. Maybe when I get in the taxi on January 14 I’ll start freaking out. It’s quite possible.
I can’t believe I did it. Seriously…I can’t believe I did this. I can’t believe I spent 27 months in this country and I’m still alive and well.
I end my Peace Corps experience with the ability to fully communicate in Russian and Turkmen, ten pounds lighter in size, but a hundred pounds heavier in experience.
I end my Peace Corps experience with more parasites than I have ever had in my life, but with less severances than I had before.
I end my Peace Corps experience with a foggy view of the future, but a beautiful picture of my past.
I end Peace Corps a whole lot stronger, with a hell of a wider outlook on life, and a massive Russian pop music collection.
I’m trying to remember the person I was when I left Washington D.C. on October 1, 2007 and it’s hard. It feels like it was a decade ago. I look at photos and see the clothes I wore and how short my hair was and I think wow that’s so weird. I think of my daily activities in the month before I left the US and it’s not comparable to my daily activities here.
It’s just weird.
I end Peace Corps a little freaked out, but I have three more weeks in this desert community to figure it all out.
Vampires!
December 9, 2009
Awhile back some amazing friends of mine sent me the Twilight series, which I quickly discovered is a huge phenomenon in the United States, as the second movie, “New Moon” just came out. I went through the entire book series in about a week and a half and they were quickly sought after (and still are) by other volunteers as well.
But when my students found out that I had all four books it became an obsession.
Classroom chatter erupted with Edward and Bella and how hot he was in the movie and on and on and on.
“Enough!” I yelled at them one day. “The story doesn’t even get interesting until book four when she becomes a vampire, anyway!”
“WHY DID YOU TELL US THAT!!!!!!” they screamed.
“Oops!” I laughed. “Sorry guys, back to work.”
“That was soooooo mean!” they glared at me.
To say they’re obsessed is quite the understatement. When we play around with names someone is always Edward and Bella. Examples in class go back to Edward and Bella. One student even requested I please download some Twilight photos when I go into the city to use the internet.
They seriously can’t get enough.
But yesterday was definitely the kicker.
“Angela, do vampires really exist?” one student asked me. “Maral says they do.”
I looked behind her to see Maral quietly laughing.
“Of course they do! You didn’t know that?” I said.
“What? No…I don’t believe you,” she said.
“Vampires exist everywhere! It’s common knowledge, Jeren.”
“Really?”
“YES! Vampires have existed for thousands of years and will continue to do so. I can’t believe you didn’t know this!”
“But how can it be true?” she asked with wide eyes.
“Vampires are EVERYWHERE. Especially in Turkmeni-“ I couldn’t hold it in any longer and the laugh erupted from inside of me.
“YOU’RE LYING! I KNEW IT!” she yelled.
“I’m sorry!” I laughed. “It was just too good I couldn’t help it.”
Anyone interested in making some vampire-obsessed teenagers smile? Send a copy of “New Moon” to Yoloten. Movie theaters don’t exist out here, but pirated DVDs are always welcome.
Awhile back some amazing friends of mine sent me the Twilight series, which I quickly discovered is a huge phenomenon in the United States, as the second movie, “New Moon” just came out. I went through the entire book series in about a week and a half and they were quickly sought after (and still are) by other volunteers as well.
But when my students found out that I had all four books it became an obsession.
Classroom chatter erupted with Edward and Bella and how hot he was in the movie and on and on and on.
“Enough!” I yelled at them one day. “The story doesn’t even get interesting until book four when she becomes a vampire, anyway!”
“WHY DID YOU TELL US THAT!!!!!!” they screamed.
“Oops!” I laughed. “Sorry guys, back to work.”
“That was soooooo mean!” they glared at me.
To say they’re obsessed is quite the understatement. When we play around with names someone is always Edward and Bella. Examples in class go back to Edward and Bella. One student even requested I please download some Twilight photos when I go into the city to use the internet.
They seriously can’t get enough.
But yesterday was definitely the kicker.
“Angela, do vampires really exist?” one student asked me. “Maral says they do.”
I looked behind her to see Maral quietly laughing.
“Of course they do! You didn’t know that?” I said.
“What? No…I don’t believe you,” she said.
“Vampires exist everywhere! It’s common knowledge, Jeren.”
“Really?”
“YES! Vampires have existed for thousands of years and will continue to do so. I can’t believe you didn’t know this!”
“But how can it be true?” she asked with wide eyes.
“Vampires are EVERYWHERE. Especially in Turkmeni-“ I couldn’t hold it in any longer and the laugh erupted from inside of me.
“YOU’RE LYING! I KNEW IT!” she yelled.
“I’m sorry!” I laughed. “It was just too good I couldn’t help it.”
Anyone interested in making some vampire-obsessed teenagers smile? Send a copy of “New Moon” to Yoloten. Movie theaters don’t exist out here, but pirated DVDs are always welcome.
Saturday, December 05, 2009
Two Weeks
I officially have two more weeks as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Turkmenistan. I arrive in Ashgabat December 20 to begin three days of paperwork and exit interviews and then...the world is mine.
Sitting in class the other day one of my students said, "Angela, what will happen if you leave?"
I couldn't stop laughing. "What do you mean 'IF', Jeren? I can't STAY here. I have to go home."
I made pumpkin pie for my students on Thanksgiving and once again the subject of me leaving was brought up.
"You made this yourself?" one girl asked.
I told her I did.
"See, you can cook! Just stay here and be a gelin!"
I immediately started laughing. "What a GREAT IDEA! Why have I never thought of that before? I could just get married!"
If I had a dollar for every marraige proposal I've received in this country I would never have to work again.
Sitting in class the other day one of my students said, "Angela, what will happen if you leave?"
I couldn't stop laughing. "What do you mean 'IF', Jeren? I can't STAY here. I have to go home."
I made pumpkin pie for my students on Thanksgiving and once again the subject of me leaving was brought up.
"You made this yourself?" one girl asked.
I told her I did.
"See, you can cook! Just stay here and be a gelin!"
I immediately started laughing. "What a GREAT IDEA! Why have I never thought of that before? I could just get married!"
If I had a dollar for every marraige proposal I've received in this country I would never have to work again.
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